Baltimore and beyond

Seeing is not believing! What looks like a substantial pirate ship is actually a number of inflatable dinghys lashed together and manned by a "happy" pirate crew.

Our second summer mini cruise was a delight as we began by motoring 6 hrs up the bay to Annapolis for several days of ambling around this beautiful little town and enjoying the never ending panoply of funny boat tricks in the harbor.

Onward then to Baltimore and a great visit with cruising friends Lynn and Wayne Flatt AKA "Capt Bones" Commander of a pirate ship that raids the harbor five times daily. We stayed at the Henderson Wharf Marina at Fells Point a stones throw from the Inner Harbor. We spent most of the second day exploring the "Inner Harbor" possibly the greatest transformation of a hughly depressed central urban area ever. Stunning hotels, shopping centers and other entertainment abound topped by the Aquarium. The sea life and aquatic displays are magnificently presented in a building that is a work of art in itself. We rode the water taxi around the harbor venues all day culminating in a visit to Fort McHenry. Standing beneath the flag pole where "Old Glory" was first flown and seeing/hearing the details of that occasion was a thrill.

Off then a few hours across the bay to Rock Hall, a once quaint fishing village now home to tons of home ported and visiting cruising boats. As luck would have it, we stumbled in on the major event of the year, the "Pirates and Ladies Weekend". Most of the town participates in decorating and sporting fancy pirate costumes. Visitors add to the scene with numerous pirate related events take place all weekend. Most fun was the pirate dinghy parade and race. About 40 dinghys of all types were dressed out in pirate garb and manned by crews who worked hard not to become thursty during the several hours in the hot noonday sun while boat registration and formation took place. Riding the trolly and our bikes around the old town was great fun as well as visiting with a great assortment of "characters".

Then a 3 hour run up the Chester River to Chestertown perhaps the most beautiful town on the Eastern Shore. Dating from the 1700's, the town surrounds Washington College the only school to bear George's name and one he visited regularly on his trips from points north to Washington. Many streets lined by ancient trees and well maintained old homes are a feast for the eyes.

After two delightful days anchored in the river, we headed back down to a "town" ... Queenstown at the mouth of the river and a few miles from Kent Island and the Narrows. Thinking we might taper off with an evening ashore in a quaint little place we dinghyed to the town after anchoring in an idealic nearby "creek". We climbed up onto the dock and then walked up a hill a short block or two to the "center of town" where a post office and a fire house were found. We asked a nice lady unloading groceries at a nearby home where we might get something to eat. She chuckled and said what we were seeing all of it. Guess there are smaller towns but we have yet to see one.

Finally a sleigh ride downwind on a 15k breeze, 6 hours to the Solomons and our home marina..
All in all a fun and easy two weeks with lots of sights and sounds and the best so far this summer.

As usual too many pictures at in album "Baltimore and beyond" at

picasaweb.google.com/lropka

Going Home

50 YEARS!!!! It was only yesterday that the wee small town of Libby, Montana was sending 60 youngsters out into the cold, cruel world to make their fortunes. Like bad pennies, many of us came back to our 50th reunion, maybe not with fortunes but fond memories of a time long past. It was fun to hear my classmates relate their impressions of each other tempered by a half century of life. It was especially engaging to hear the many tales of unrequited love throughout our school years. Amazing how long it takes for the truth to be known. I had no idea of the trail of broken hearts left behind. Especially delightful was time spent with my friend Marj. She has accomplished so much in her life and has made Libby proud.

While Larry stayed aboard CHARIS tending her lines, painting the bilge and reorganizing his stuff, I was toddling up and down the highway from Spokane to Libby to Seattle visiting family. Note: out West it is not highways, it is highway .... there is only one ;-)

It was wonderful to find Aunt Grace in fine fettle and once again enjoying life in her new digs overlooking Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains. She has been such an inspiration to me over the years. Her daughter, Heidi has done a yomens job working through the many challenges of caring for her mother. Uncle Vince and Aunt JoAnne are still in good health and full of stories of the early Neils family culture. The time spent with my brothers and their families is always full of laughter and there is always a tale of adventure. The latest was nephew James hiking in the woods with his family, when he fell, broke his leg and had to be helicoptered out ... took 5 hours to get to him. My sister-in-law Rene and her family turned out for dinner in Edmonds. They are always so welcoming. Love sitting with Rene overlooking her garden of beautiful flowers, sipping a cup of tea and catching up with the families comings and goings.

Along the way, I stopped at many neat little towns, fruit stands and mom & pop breakfast spots while a patient husband kept track of my escapades and kept the money flowing.

Pictures can be found at picasaweb.google.com/lropka @ going home

Tale of Four Towns

Visiting the towns dotting the southern end of the Chesapeake Bay is a bit like stepping through Alice's mirror into a different era.

Tangier Island , a stamp sized parcel of land 3' above sea level in the middle of the bay, is a flash back to life in the 1700's. About the only thing new is motors in the boats but crabbing and oystering go on as about the only things to do there. Three or four names dominate the monuments in the cemeteries and the natives treat visitors as long lost friends.

Fifty miles up Pocomoke Sound and then the twisting Pokomoke river is Pokomoke City lodged in the middle of the Delmarva peninsula and reflecting the dual cultures of the Bay and "Shore" being but a few miles from Ocean city. A remarkably clean town with streets lined with charming old 19th century homes and friendly locals happy to engage in conversation about any era or aspect of their split personality. Pokomoke provides free docking with water and electricity on a well maintained dock stretching 1/4 mile along a lush waterfront park.


Back down the river and sound 40 miles (the last 2 hours quite bumpy as we rolled to a NW sea constrained in a narrow channel) to Onancock. Another neat little town with deep roots in revolutionary history. Arriving on a blustery weekend day at a quite "small" town marina we were entertained with all sorts of boat handeling acrobatics as skilled and unskilled boaters were tested by the winds, currents, tides and limited space. We were part of the show as we avoided drifting into a boat eating steel bridge downwind and close to our slip. We shot the boat into our appointed slip only to become jammed between the reported 13' (our beam width)pilings. Needing about 100 of our 150hp to extricate ourselves we serenely backed out and drifted to the adjacent "13'"slip and glided in with room to spare. Admiral's note .... very impressive!!

We attend church at a 200 year old Onancock Baptist church (now standing empty in fresh white clapbord) as members congregate in the new modern building just behind. The Sunday School class loved on us like we were rich relatives and the church service reflected similar warmth. This warmth is reflected outside the church as EVERYONE waves to EVERYONE on foot or riding bikes or in cars as they pass throughout the town. We sat on a bench on the main street enchanted by this phenomenon.

The next day we were off 30 miles directly across the Bay to Kilmarnock,Va where Larry's mother was born and raised. Larry's grandfather was a waterman for forty years before marrying and we were anxious to see if we could get some clues to his and the family lifestyle. Kilmarnock is still a quite small town now with many "come heres" but still a lot of pride in it's heritage. After a 2 mile bicycle ride to town (mostly up hill) we found a very helpful lady at the library who pointed us to some books on the town's history and in but a few minutes Larry found a picture of his mother taken in a 5th grade class picture at the grade school. We also picked up some valuable leads on other sources of information on grandfather's life as a waterman.

After a magnificent sunset seen from our anchorage in a delightful small cove and a nights rest we headed back to the Solomons at dawn a bit nervous about the six and one half hour run having seen mostly rough water the previous moving days. However God was good and we flew up the Bay with a gentle following breeze and sea.

All in all a great mini-cruise, 200 or so miles of Bay beauty and atmosphere with the boat humming along without missing a beat.

Joan is off to Montana mid month for a class reunion in Libby (someone notify Homeland Security!!) and then we hope to take another ten dayer possibly to the central eastern shore.

As usual pictures can be found under Tangier/Pokomoke/Onancock/Kilmarnock at Picasaweb.google.com/lropka

Unfished business 08

WELLLLL
We could say we were too busy all winter to finish posting our pictures from last year.
Then maybe we could say we lost them.
Hmmm, but you would know better so lets just tell the truth that we procrastinated away seven months. Not a world record but close.

At any rate the pictures from Waterford NY back to the Solomons are posted at picasaweb.google.com/lropka in the album "Waterford to Solomons"

It was a fun ride down the Hudson River in the early fall high lighted by a night anchored in the shadow of the Statue of Liberty and a rough little passage from there to Manasaquan NJ along the Atlantic Coast.

We are aboard CHARIS in the Solomons now (June 09) and finally catching up. More stuff from our trek from home and relaunch is in the album "Heading Out 04/08

BLOGS BACK !!!!!

The crew of Charis escaped the surly bonds of Ft Walton on 27 April 09 and land cruised via camper to the Solomons to find CHARIS snug and in fine shape after a winter in her shrink wrap. Thank goodness the bottom did not need sanding this year so 3 days of painting and touch up and in the water she went on 12 May.

The crew "coasted" through most of May getting settled in and putting things away in places where they will never be found. An hour voyage and overnight in St. Leonard Creek found all systems in working order.

The pace picked up as we prepared for the arrival of Joan's brother, John and sister-in-law Paula, who arrived 2 June and were greeted by two days of torrential rain. Never the less, we threw off the lines and headed for St Leonard Creek and then into Mill Creek getting in practice for a run across the bay. We were able to get a quick dinghy ride between rain drops. The sun finally came out and we were off on a delightful 3 day cruise across the bay to Oxford and St Michaels in almost ideal conditions. Nice dinghy trips, walks, sightseeing, dinners aboard and ice cream cones ashore punctuated the days and a great time was had by all. Continued cool weather afforded a last day trip to DC to cruise the mall on bikes and take in the spring grandure of our nation's capitol.

Fast on the heels of John and Paula's departure was the arrival of Vicki Thornell and Margret Henry having taken a detour from their trip from FWB to Ohio. The tide was a bit high so they were dinghyed (is there such a word) aboard. We managed to make an over night at anchor in St. Leonard Creek with a real dinghy ride up the inlets, a cool glass of tea at Vera's and upon return to the dock, a crab cake lunch at the Pier.

Sat the Japanese PBS crew arrived to interview Larry about a Tibetian caper some 50 years ago, which sent the girls on an exciting tour of all Joan's hangouts .... laundramat, grocery store, park, Navy rec center, etc.

Sunday, as we waved the girls good-bye as we waved hello to Gail and Butch Nelson who came over for lunch at Woodburns. Another brief dinghy ride and of course, the traditional ice cream cone on the boardwalk.

A call earlier from George Jolly saying he was coming too, so Tues evening Larry picked him up at the Holiday Inn dock. We had a delightful evening catching up on all happenings back in FWB.

Would you believe that in 2 years of cruising we have had two folks aboard for the night .... what happened? Loved every moment.

After more than 5000 miles and 650 hours under way the past two summers, we are slowing down and hope to simply explore some of the many cruising destinations the Chesapeake Bay has to offer. Included will be 10 days or so in Washington some time in Aug. Pictures and tales will be considerably less dramatic than the last years but still showing this life we so enjoy.

We are up to date as of this moment. Pictures can be found at picasaweb.google.com/lropka

Crossing our wake at Waterford, NY

Marker #1 at Waterford, NY where Charis crosses our northbound wake completing 800 miles of cruising on some of the most beautiful canals, rivers and lakes in the world.

Lots of water under the keel since our last post. Leaving Ottowa we slipped down a flight of 9 locks taking 2 1/2 hours into the Ottowa River ending the day in Montebello where we tied up at their marina in front of the largest log building (resort hotel) in the world. A really unique and charming place. Then on to Sainte Anne de Beauville and a drop of 65' in a massive lock. Then to Montreal where we stayed 3 days literally right in the center of the charming old town. Our stay was highlighted by a morning at the big city block farmers maket rivaling those of Pennsylvania Dutch country.

Then on to Sorel turning the corner and heading south 60 miles down the Richelieu to Lake Champlain which included about 30 miles on the Chambly Canal, about 20yds wide and truely a unique experience terminating at Sainte-Jean Sur Richelieu at the head of Lake Champlain. There we were treated with a major hot air baloon fly over. Crossing Lake Champlain, we stopped for one night at Wesport NY, a pretty little resort area, from there to the Champlain Canal and 100 miles to Waterford NY completing the triangle.
We have rested up here for three days and will head on down the Hudson River tomorrow, Sunday, begining a three day run to New York City thence onto the the New Jersey Coast and into the Delaware Bay.

We hope to be back in the Chesapeake in about ten days or so and look forward to a few lazy days remembering our summer and cleaning up the 1800 or so miles of grime and nicks and bruises on the boat.

Once again words seem inadequate to tell our tale and we will let the pictures at picasaweb.google.com/lropka do the talking. (Over 400 pictures have been taken and the Admiral has to do some major pruning .... we will put them up in several batches as they get done. The Admiral tends to take a picture and find a second later there is a better shot and then another better shot and .....)

Admiral's note: The Ottawa flight is thrilling as you get into the first lock with the bow of the boat looking out into space. You are certain that this is the edge of the world. A cruise like this is so packed with fun, scenes, interesting people, beauty, etc that it needs to be done at least a couple more times ... Captain are you listening ;-)

The first batch is up @ Montebella - Montreal - Sorel at picasaweb.google.com/lropka

The second batch is up @ Sorel - Waterford Ny at picasaweb.google.com/lropka

End of the Rideau canal

All too soon our time on the Rideau Canal comes to an end as we descend the nine flight of locks to the Ottowa river below.

We are in Montreal, our first Wifi hot spot since the Westport about mid Rideau canal. The canal continued to be a joy and we serendipitously found ourselves in the heart of Ottowa for the celebration of the designation of the Rideau as a World Heritage site, rather like a modern version of the Seven Wonders of the world. The canal is most deserving and is truly a world class treasure. As usual we will let the pictures tell the story. Just too difficult to describe in words.
We will post Montreal later, a magnificent old world city where we are parked a stones throw from the heart of old town with all of it's charm and history.

Except for the almost daily rain the cruise continues to exceed our expectations and most of the more technical challenges behind us.

Tomorrow, 08/10 we will head for Sorel 40 miles down (Northeast) the St Lswrence Seaway where we turn south on the Richelieu Canal headed for Lake Champlain, 100 miles further south.

We should be back in daily internet range by next week. You will again find the pictures on picasaweb.google.com/lropka